We had lunch yesterday with a couple of Janet’s cousins and their spouses at Beaugard’s Southern Barbecue in Wilmington. Hadn’t been there in couple of years but Beaugard’s is as good a cue as can be found above the Mason-Dixon Line. I didn’t have a column written for today so with the zing of Beaugard’s hot sauce still on my tongue I decided to reprise something BBQ related from the past. Here’s an article that was published in the Times Gazette in 2002.
Barbeque I’ve Known
February 3, 2002
Maybe it’s because I was born in South Carolina but, I never tire of going south. When most folks think of the South visions of magnolias, antebellum homes, pine trees or NASCAR may come to mind. For me, it’s barbeque.
My frequent sojourns into the Carolinas are in constant pursuit of the perfect meal of pork (there is no other kind) slow cooked over a bed of hickory coals.
The best barbeque is found in the Carolinas and even there regional differences will be found. In eastern North Carolina BBQ is usually “whole hog” and the traditional sauce is simply vinegar spiced up with salt and crushed red pepper.
In the western part of the state BBQ is typically pork shoulder and some tomato and sugar is slipped into the sauce. Hush puppies and slaw are commonly served throughout North Carolina as an appetizer, like tortilla chips in a Mexican place.
In South Carolina, especially around Columbia, hams are the preferred cut of the hog and the sauce is a golden mustard-based sweet concoction served with white bread and something called BBQ hash. Hash is a liver-based gravy served over a bed of white rice.
Now, back to my quest and what have I discovered? To date the absolute best BBQ in this known world is to be found at a legendary BBQ joint in Goldsboro, NC, Wilber’s. It is “the” place and it’s an institution where typically twenty-five hogs each day are slow cooked over hardwood coals and a meal of chopped BBQ, potato salad, vinegar slaw, hush puppies and sweet tea (the vin ordinaire of the south) can be had for only $5.50. Wilber’s, because it is located next to Seymour-Johnson AFB, is world-renowned.
Second best is Sweatman’s and is located outside Holly Hill, SC. Five generations of Sweatman’s have been cooking up hogs for general consumption and $5.00 will get you all the food you can possibly handle at one sitting. It is superb but they’re only open on the weekends.
Third on my list is Maurice’s Piggy Park BBQ in West Columbia, SC. The food is great but be prepared for a liberal dose of conservative politics that’s served along with it. Maurice hasn’t figured out that the Civil War is over and his side lost.
These are my picks but the quest continues. Others, naturally, will disagree with my choices. But, if the best BBQ sandwich you ever ate came out of a can at the corner dairy bar you probably qualify for some government culinary disability program.